Ridin' the Rock!

Ridin' the Rock! August 2011
Newfoundland & Labrador – What a Spectacular Ride!

Western Brook Pond

Just like many extended road trips, our big ride to Newfoundland & Labrador (NL) was first conceived in the dark depths of a cold and dreary Canadian winter: 15 January 2010 to be exact.  Just thinking of wide open roads, diverse landscapes, sea breezes and warm sunny summer days ahead actually made the winter blahs a little more bearable - at least for a couple hours each week. Once identifying the first week in August for the road trip, there was plenty to consider including destinations, accommodations, ferry schedules, etc.

There is a certain degree of pleasure and anticipation to be derived from careful planning.  With much of the winter still ahead of us, and even longer before our actual crossing of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, we wanted to be sure that we would squeeze out every bit of enjoyment that we possibly could during the ride and while on the Rock.  And of course, everyone we talked to about going to NL had lots of advice, which consistently included: “You’re gonna love it!” and “Watch for Moose”.

Junping forward to the Ferry Crossing:

okay, what's not wet?

strapped down on the ferry

way past midnight

The Berth

Where to go? What to do?  First things first: brew up some hot coffee, clear the table and spread out a large scale map.  Destinations were tossed about freely and included: L’Anse aux Meadows, St. John’s, Fogo Island, Western Brook Pond, Rocky Harbour, Gros Morne National Park, St. Anthony, and Lark Harbour among others.  Eating codfish and seeing icebergs were also high on the list of ‘to do’s’.

Our first sight of Newfoundland & Labrador:

Port Aux Basques

Pack it in

During our winter get-togethers, we were blessed with expert local knowledge, as Chris was from Grand Falls-Windsor and had also lived in Fogo for three years (and was she ever anxious to get back!).   In the end, and with only one week available, we settled on three main destination areas: Gros Morne, Grand Falls-Windsor and Fogo Island.

Our road trip initially included Jean & Dar, Chris & Greg and Paulette & Brian, with all three couples doubled up on Ultra-Classics.  Unfortunately, a late and unexpected but opportune medical treatment pre-empted Jean & Dar from joining the ride.  Such is life – you have to roll with it.  We all agreed not to postpone as plans and reservations were in place.   

My words cannot do justice to the beauty, ruggedness and diversity of the landscapes we had the pleasure to experience.  Riding into and throughout Gros Morne National Park

was a breath-taking and surreal experience.  The mountains were majestic, the Gulf of St. Lawrence calming and the well maintained winding roads as good as it gets for riding anywhere.  Rocky Harbour is an inviting town with a bountiful fish market sure to satisfy anyone looking for fresh catch of the day.  Any trip to NL has to include an excursion to Western Brook Pond.  Your first glimpse of the towering rock cliffs encasing this land-locked fjord will make your heart skip a beat – it is that incredible.  Plan a few hours here to take advantage of a boat tour that cruises leisurely along the 16 km length of this pristine and remarkably unique Pond (as they say in NL).

At Western Brook Pond, there was much talk of icebergs off of St. Anthony, and although approximately 400 km away to the north, Paulette and I simply had to go.  You have to take advantage of opportunity when you can.  Our diversion to the tip of the western peninsula was a humbling experience in every way possible.  Distance and time while riding there and back seemed to stand still.  We were fortunate enough to see several massive icebergs off of Goose Cove and then after a short ride further north, got to stand in the footprints of Leif Eiriksson and other Vikings who settled L’Anse aux Meadows a thousand years ago.  Simply amazing!

While we were up north, Greg and Chris explored the natural beauty in and around Gros Morne National Park, including postcard perfect places such as the East Arm, Woody Point, Trout River, the Arches Provincial Park and the shipwreck remains of the SS Ethie, not to mention passing by grazing moose along the way.

Once back together, we were then off to Grand Falls-Windsor in central NL to Chris’ parents: Margaret & Gordon.  More gracious hosts you will never find - anywhere.  Margaret & Gordon raisied their family in Grand Falls-Windsor and Gordon spent his working life at what was once the town’s main livelihood – the mill, now closed and boarded up.  Gordon retired a few years ago, however, Margaret continues preparing and cooking delicious traditional NL delicacies such a Partridgeberry and Bake-Apple jams.  They now enjoy the rewards of a good life, travelling and spending time with loved ones.  Enjoying their hospitality was the highlight of the trip for Paulette, a true spud-islander!

Early the next morning and with great anticipation we were off to catch the ferry to Fogo Island.  Memories from childhood ditties (I’se The B’y That Builds The Boat…) were heard all along the way.  If you could ride into a postcard, Fogo Island is defintely what it would be like.  Every turn and incline in the road brought into view another spectaular vista.  The towns of Stag Harbour, Seldom, Tilting, Joe Batt’s Arm, and Fogo were each vivid images of traditional down east fishing villages.  Piers, boats, grazing caribou, colourful houses and friendly people were everywhere.

A brief conversation with one gentleman on the pier in Joe Batt’s Arm revealed that he had just retired, spent his career as a teacher, then principal, at the various schools on Fogo Island.  He pointed out across the cove to the house he was born and raised in and, slightly to the right, to the house where he now lived.  What was he doing: waiting for three of his childhood buddies to show up to go mackeral fishing – five per man, 15 per boat max.  This man had life figured out!

Fogo Island was full of wonder, not the least of which was Brimstone Head, a huge bluff reaching outward into the North Atlantic and upwards 300 feet above sea level.  Brimestone Head is widely known as one of the Four Corners of the World as proclaimed by the Flat Earth Society.  Regardless if you are a believer, the view from the summit of Brimestone Head outwards or in toward the idyllic town of Fogo and its protected harbour are etched in your memory in the same way as are other natural and man-made wonders such as the Grand Canyon or the pyramids.

It was difficult to leave Fogo Island the next day, however, the planned ride around the Musgrave Harbour, Wesleyville, Hare Bay and Gambo loop was enough incentive to make the early nine o’clock ferry crossing back to Farewell on time.  After another incredible day of riding filled with panoramic seascapes, ocean breezes and picturesque town after town ahead of us, we arrived back in Grand Falls-Windsor to have the pleasure to be with Margaret & Gordon again as they celebrated their 51^th wedding anniversary.

The next day was our last on the Rock but was not without more riding on our way back to Port aux Basques.  We kept the last day as an opportunity to explore Corner Brook and westward along the Humber Arm, the Bay of Islands, past Blow Me Down Provincial Park and on in to Lark Harbour, which was yet another quaint and colourful fishing village.  Chris & Greg remained on this peninsula and later discovered Bottle Cove and further along an absolutely picturesque protected inlet at the end of Little Port Road.  During the same time, Paulette & I ventured further south towards Stephenville.  Again, with the day waning, we wanted to see Stephenville and as much of the Port au Port peninsula and its French shore as we could.  We left much of that road un-travelled but vowed to return as we headed southwards towards our rendezvous with Chris & Greg at the gas station and diner on the TCH, where we had breakfast a short week before on our first day on the Rock.

Heading back to Port aux Basques to arrive before nightfall, we were filled with incredible wonderment and inspiration from the natural beauty and the genuineness of the people we experienced during our short week in NL.  We missed St. John’s and the eastern regions of the province on this trip, but there will be another road trip for sure.  We found ourselves wondering when the next Atlantic Regional or Canadian National HOG Rally would be held in NL.  Sounds like part of a future plan.

If you have ever considered a trip to NL but have not made it there yet, it is without a doubt one of the most incredible places on the planet!  When you do get the opportunity to go, “You’re gonna love it”, and oh yeah, “Watch for Moose”!